(Excerpts from a journey to soul stirring Ladakh, India)

We set out in the wee hours of the morning for Pangong Tso (Lake). Journey from LEH, where we were stationed….to the Pangong is about 150 kms. We were told that our jeep might take about five hours!

It was important to reach the lake early ….as on the way… one has to cross a point nearing Pangong …where the mountain stream can make the vehicle-crossing almost impossible after noon or one p.m. (once the sun is up in its harsh glory …causing the snow to melt )

Even at about 10 a.m., when we reached that particular point, the stream was ferocious….but our local driver ‘Norbu’ negotiated the boulders …and the knee deep water… with ease! But he also warned us that we have to be back before one p.m.! Or else, we might have to spend the night in the wilderness! And I can swear that he had a wicked grin at the corner of his mouth, when he said this!

Pangong is a high mountain brackish lake….formed millions of years ago….by the upheavals in our mother earth. It is situated at an altitude of more than 4000 meters above sea level (14000 ft.) All high mountain brackish lakes, probably, are remnants of some by-gone ocean….pushed on the top of the earth by tectonic phenomenon! And Pangong is no exception! (‘Brackish’ is for water that is saline)

The entire journey brought us close to a soul stirring and stark landscape…..which is the hallmark of the entire Ladakh terrain! The mountain passes are high and steep! There is no vegetation! No animal life….barring a stray sighting of Yaks…And the peaks are snow covered (This was August)…. the whole landscape is eerie….yet breathtakingly beautiful!

We had already obtained permits from the Tourism Authorities at Leh…as the whole area is ‘strategically sensitive’ from Defence point of view….being close to China border. On the way there were many army check points….where Norbu would haul himself out of the jeep….and run along….in his oversize army jacket and a woolen cap….looking like an over-grown teddy bear….and we would take this opportunity to go and attend to the call of nature (Mostly on the roadside….as we were lucky, only once, to find army -constructed ‘tin’ lavatories… a separate one for ladies too!) …..it was COLD!

On the way, we crossed the third highest (in the world) motor able pass at Chang La (about 5500 meters or 17000 ft.). ‘La’ is the Ladakhi for a pass as ‘Tso’ is for Lake!

We wanted to stop there for chai (a welcome warm cuppa) but Norbu vehemently refused….

It was about 9:45 a.m. and we had already been thoroughly hypnotized by the amazing landscape….when our jeep negotiated a particular bend….and there it was! The first glimpse of an emerald green-blue miracle at a distance!!!

Soon… we were at the pristine Pangong!

It was a sight that one cannot describe in words! It is so very beautiful! It is simply out of this world! Even a camera can’t capture the beauty ….although we all went immediately crazy and must’ve clicked about 400 photos in the next one hour ….between the three of us!

The Pangong Tso is blue…it is green….it is grey….it is emerald….it is rainbow….it is peacock….it is golden!!!

Every few minutes the color of the lake water would change….but each time it would become more enchanting! There were gentle waves in the water …like sea waves….and we were told that on a moonlit night these waves are really ‘active’!

And the golden brown hills in the backdrop…a few with a sprinkling of snow…stood like sentinels guarding this gem….and the whole scenario could transport one into a land of dreams !!!

Pangong was vast (long…as it is 135 kms. in length); with a good two-thirds in China….and is 5 kms wide at its widest point.

Luckily, boating and water sports are forbidden….so the lake stood serene & proud …without being soiled by the ‘adventurous’ tourists! In fact, on the day of our visit…there were only five more vehicles….and Norbu said that was about the average each day …during the tourist season! (What a relief!)

We spent about two hours….and then our dear friend Norbu insisted that it was time to leave….but not before he ran to a tent nearby…..with his diesel can….and he was grinning when he came out….he had managed to buy ‘stolen’ army diesel at half the market price !

On the way back…we stopped at every possible place…almost out of vengeance towards Norbu!

One such impromptu stop was when we saw a flock of PASHMINA sheep …..And some Yaks in the distance! It was a great relief to stretch on a rare grassy patch!!!

We stopped for lunch at a make-shift tent ‘dhaba’ near a stream and ate…what else…the ever inviting noodles and eggs!

Journey back was equally amazing …but the fond memories of Pangong ….now etched strongly in our memories!

And as the dusk fell…we were now at a hand-shaking distance from the proud Ladakh range… and soon…we were climbing down to Leh!